This post is dedicated to some ways you can alter the upper half of the 8101 swimsuit. If you prefer adjustable straps instead of a halter-neck ties and how to make the bikini a full band and adding closures at the back.
Adding a Full Back Band to the Bikini Top
I recently made the bikini version for a client and she requested a full back band with a closure for the top. So i’ll use this as an example for how to make the changes. First lets look at creating just a full back band:
The pattern is made with a -10% negative, which means it is 90% of the total body circumference measurement.
I took her under-bust measurement 96.5cm (38″), and calculate 90% of that: 96.5 X 0.9 = 86.8cm. This means the total circumference of the bra band will need to be 86.8 cm. I measured the bra band pattern piece that I used according to her size and then added onto each end the additional amount required. If you want just a bandeau style back, you can then add your seam allowance of 1cm (3/8″) and sew the CB closed.
If you don’t want a CB seam, then you can separate the front of the bra band and create one back band. Measure about 2.5cm (1″) from the top point of the outer cup edge and draw a line down to the lower edge at a very shallow angle inwards. 
Then join the CB line together smoothing out join lines. Don’t forget to add seam allowance to the new side seams! If you create a separate piece for the front of the bra band, you can also underline this with power mesh to add additional strength and support under the cups.
Adding a Closure to the Full Back Band
To add in a closure you’ll need to measure the width of the closure – in my case it was a G-hook just shy of 2cm (3/4″) wide. I then narrowed the width of the centre back to that size and added seam allowance. I would recommend shortening it by taking away from the top edge of the centre back and blending to the high point at the side seam as this gives the best balance and distribution of stretch to the fabric.
Remember that the seam allowance will need to be longer to accommodate going through and sewing in the closure and a loop for it on the other side. I used 2cm (3/4″) seam allowance.
I chose to place a G-hook closure on the same side as bra hooks, as women are used to hooking at the back in the same manner. So that means if you’re looking at the bra band flat, right side up, the closure is on the left and the loop is on the right.
You could also add a G-hook or other swimsuit closure to Version 2 of the swimsuit, if you want the one-piece with a low cut back, but like having some support around the back of the chest.
Adjustable ‘straight’ straps
If you’re not too keen on having a halter-neck here are the steps you can take to make them into adjustable straps that are more akin to a standard bra. You’ll want to do these steps before sewing the straps onto the cups.
You’ll need: two sets of bra rings and sliders, wide enough to accommodate the width of the two neck straps, something that’s at a minimum around 1.5 cm (5/8″) size would work.
For each cup have one rouleaux strap 20″ long. Slide a ring through the strap, then sew the two raw ends of this rouleaux strap to the cup as per the instructions.
For the adjustable strap at the back you’ll need two straps, around 33-38cm (13-15″) long. They’re final width will be as much as the ring and sliders allows. For this example that width is 1.5cm (5/8″). Cut two rectangles 33cm X (1.5cm + seam allowance).
Fold the seam allowance inwards and topstitch it down with a zig-zag.
Then feed one end through ring attached to the front rouleaux straps (1), then through the middle of the slider, fold the end down and stitch (2). 
Take the other end and feed it through the ring (3) – which has the front straps. Then feed that end through the slider (4).
Sew this remaining raw end to the top back edge of the swimsuit.
You’ll want to check you’re preferred placement on the back, but a good rule of thumb is 8-9cm (3 1/2 – 4″) from the CB. Then you’re done!
Month: June 2015
8101 Alterations Part 2 – Basic Fit Changes
Today, I thought we could look into some basic pattern alterations for fitting the 8101 swimsuit.
Lengthening or Shortening the Body
For versions 1 & 2, the simplest way to alter the bodice length is to take the bodice pieces and divide it into 3. Then cut along the creases and then spread or overlap by as much as you need to.
For version 3, the bikini, take the bottoms and divide it in half, the cut and spread/overlap.
Smaller Cups
The pattern comes with 3 cup sizes started at a B/C and going upwards. I received a couple of questions about how to alter the cup size for smaller cup size range.
Take the B/C cup and lining pattern pieces in your size. Find the bust apex by drawing in the stitching lines on the cup lining pattern piece and measuring 1cm (3/8″) up from that point. Then find the mid-points of the three long edges and join them to bust apex – which is 1cm (3/8″) – cut and slash along those lines.
Additional Cup Support
Whilst on the topic of cups, some of you may want to add a little more ‘oomph’ in that area, either to create a smoother breast shape or have some additional strentgh to support the breast, especially if you’re on the larger end of the cup sizes.
If you have swim cup inserts (something like these) you can slot them in between the lining and outer fabric before basting the two together, free floating inside the cup. If you want them to stay put, you can sew the cup to the wrong side of the lining, with a zig zag stitch that follows the perimeter of the foam cup.
If you have yardage of foam, then you can use the lining pattern piece to cut the foam, trimming away the 1cm (3/8″) seam allowance from the sides and the top, sew the dart and place that in between the lining and the outer fabric, and will be sewn into place when you turn the elastic and topstitch it down.
There’s some great tutorials already out there in the wilds of the internetz including a round-up of information for sewing swimsuits from a ‘Swimalong’ that happened back in 2013, so I won’t be re-inventing the wheel on this one. Check out this post on how to sew foam into shape, and this post on how to sew the swim cups to the lining.
I made a bikini top with this pattern for a client with a DD cup, so I used a swim cup inserts to give some defined shaping to the cup and also added a layer of power mesh as an under lining on the cup and front portion of the bra band. I decided to go for a power-bar style shape to keep the breast shape projecting forwards and inwards rather than spreading outwards – it worked a treat!
Raising the leg line for a Higher Cut
The swimsuit comes with a low cut leg and full butt coverage, but if you want to show a little more cheek you can raise line and have a more contemporary cut.
To start, mark the vertical stitching lines 1.5cm (5/8″) for the side seam and fold the ‘flaps’ under for the time being, it will make the drafting of the leg opening much easier.
You’ll want to raise the side seam from the bottom edge, about 5cm (2″) or you can measure any of your bathers that has a cut you like and use that. Mark that off on both the front and the back.
On the Front leg opening redraft the leg opening in a smooth, shallow curve. Sometimes I like to do this free-hand to get a feel for the curve then finalise it with a curved ruler.
On the back leg hole find the midway point and measure in 5cm (2″), then draft in a new leg opening from the side seam to the crotch passing through the mid-way mark.
Just to note that this will affect the shape of the crotch curve, so you’ll likely be shaving off the corners.
The last step is to true the side seams together and make sure they blend smoothly together.
This pineapple bikini has a higher cut leg at the sides and when the side seams are scrunched it gives a more modern shape.
Alrighty, that’s it for today, the last installment will cover converting the bra band and straps!
8101 Swimsuit Alterations Part 1 – Style Changes
I know you lot are a creative bunch and I can’t wait to see some of your own amazing swimsuits!
In the mean time, part 1 is focusing on a couple of extra style changes you might like to make. Jen (Grainline Studio) pointed out some lovely Madewell swimsuits that have a similar silhouette and I saw they did some nifty strap options on the back. I think it would look great on Version 2 with the low cut back, so here’s some how-to’s for playing around with strap options!
Criss Cross Straps on a Low Back
Here’s some swimsuit backs to give you inspiration on how to play around with the straps.
Source from top right, clockwise: Asos, Madewell, Kooj
To recreate this look, make longer straps for the neck ties, around 30-35″ should be enough to go across the back, but to be on the safe side you can sew the straps the full cross-wise length of your fabric & trim after you’ve tried it on.
You’ll want to sew up two small rouleaux straps, each about 2cm (3/4″) long and fold them in half to make loops. Sew these into the sides, just below the seam where the cups join the bodice. To recreate the Kooj back, take the back back from Version 2 and remove 2.5 cm (1″) from the centre back. Then follow the pattern instructions for finishing the ends of the bikini band in version 3.
Tune in for the next post which will go into some basic fit changes.
Fabric Inspiration for the 8101 Swimsuit
If you’re making the 8101 swimsuit I thought I’d provide a little fabric inspiration to get you’re creative juices going for the 8101 swimsuit. I had a lot of fun doing some virtual fabric shopping picking out different styles of print and colours!
Let’s start with some solid colours – I really like having contrasting straps and ties, especially with a solid colour, you’ll only need 1/5 yrd of fabric in the contrast colour.
Source: 1. Coral & Mint 2. Gold 3. Scarlett Red 4.Mermaid Scales 5. Milliskin Matte in Purple and Gold 6. Mint & Navy
*Yes I realise that number 4 isn’t a solid, but it’s just so pretty and reminiscent of a mermaid, don’t you think?
I like milliskin for solid colours as one side tends to be shiner than the other, even with the milliskin matte so you can play around with having the straps made from the reverse side to the body of the swimsuit. I would note that it can be a little less than opaque when fully stretched, so if you’re going for a light colour you may want to line the whole swimsuit to ensure coverage. I also find milliskin tends to have more stretch to it – it usually has 20% spandex in it’s composition compared to more regular nylon lycra that usually has around 10%, so if you do get a milliskin I’d check the stretch and see if you need to size down for it.
If you’re more of a print kind of gal then check out some of these below. The leopard with the black band contrast keeps catching my eye.
Source: 1. Blue Stripe 2. Cheetah Print 3. Colour Streaks 4. Stripes & Fruit 5. Green Plaid 6. Honeycomb 7. Liberty of London 8. Pink Gingham 9. Stars & Stripes
I couldn’t resist the 4th of July themed one as the holiday weekend is only a few weeks away in the USA.
They all use the 8101 sewing pattern as is with the except for the blue diagonal stripe, where I decided to add a centre seam to create a chevron pattern with the diagonally printed stripes. It screams original Barbie to me, so I might have to make myself one just like it now!
Please note that the prints aren’t 100% to scale in these illustrations and that I haven’t actually seen or handled most of these fabrics in person, so make sure you order a swatch to check suitability before buying. For more information, the fabric requirements, supplies list and sizing chart are all listed on the 8101 Product Page.
What fabric are you going to make your swimsuit in? i can’t wait to see them pop up in the wilds of the internet… Happy fabric shopping!
Introducing the 8101 Halter-neck Swimsuit Pattern
Sploosh! That is the sound I hear in my head every time I see this swimsuit!
The local lido’s (outdoor community pool) are about to open in the coming weeks here in Brooklyn and I’m so very excited about sporting this bad gal whilst splashing about in the pool. I’m even tempted to take it down to Coney Island and dip a toe in the sea!
I was actually working on an entirely different pattern, but sometimes no matter how much you try and make a design work, it just doesn’t want to play ball. Whilst struggling to accept that not all designs are meant to be, I had an irresistible urge to get this design onto paper. It wouldn’t leave me alone, so one day I got up and gave in to it, expecting it just to be a cathartic exercise of releasing my demons and getting out onto paper. But somehow it just worked, the first sample looked amazing on my fit model and with a few tweaks here and there, it fell into place. I think it was a lesson in itself that sometimes you’ve just got to listen to your gut, let some stuff go and embrace other ideas.
So at the 11th hour I decided to shelf the other pattern and work on releasing this swimsuit pattern that was getting me so excited. All THE FEELS!
Enough of the touchy feelies, and onto the pattern itself!
The overall design concept for this swimsuit was based on the tie strings. This swimsuit has a lovely shaped décolletage with double rouleaux straps for the halter-neck ties. The bust cups have soft gathers for shaping and are fully lined. The leg cut is low but shaped at the front so it doesn’t cut straight across your hips horizontally and flows round to the back with full coverage for your bottom. The ties at the side seams on the hips allow you to either leave it smooth with a low-cut leg or to scrunch it up and have soft gathers at the sides.
The pattern comes with 3 variations. The first version is a one-piece that comes with a higher back, providing a little extra coverage, which is good if you’re keen to add support with a shelf bra under the bust, as this version makes it easier to have the elastic going all around your torso at the same level.
Version 2 is also a one-piece but with a lower cut back that joins up just above the waistline at the side seams.
Version 3 is a bikini, and in keeping with the retro feel of the low-cut leg I decided to make it high-waisted. The bikini top has a partial band that shows off your beautiful back and uses the halter straps as a part of the back closure. You can play around with how you tie them up at the back. I quite like the criss-cross look myself.
This pattern comes with 3 cup sizes – B/C, D/DD, DDD/E so you can really tailor this swimsuit to you curves. I also want to note that the measurement chart in the pattern takes your under-bust measurement, instead of the traditional bust measurement, so you can fit the bodice of the swimsuit to your torso and then pick the cup size that’s right for you, much like when fitting a bra.
The swimsuit is designed for spandex with four-way stretch and needs 50% stretch on the crosswise grain and good recovery. Which means the fabric usually contains a minimum 10% spandex/Lycra. For the lining generally a Poly/Spandex or Nylon composition is best.
The format of the instructions with this pattern has been set up to make it as seamless experience to sew as possible. I’ve broken down the detailed instructions into 3 separate sections – one per variation – and there’s a hyperlinked menu so you can skip straight to your version and sew!
The pattern pieces for each version of the swimsuit are group together in the pattern file, with a ‘map’ and list of the pages you need to print found in the instructions booklet, so you can print the specific cup size and swimsuit version you want to make. The pattern pieces are whole, which I find makes it easier to handle as there’s not cutting on the fold.
I hope you love this swimsuit as much as I do! I think it has a lot of potential with different prints and I’ll be following up with some posts on some pattern changes you can do with it in the coming weeks.
You can get the pattern here.