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Pattern Alterations for 6101 Skirt Pt.1

Let’s take a look at some basic changes you can do to the 6101 skirt pattern. This originally turned out to be a monstrously long post, so i’m splitting it out into two. Here’s part one, so grab a cuppa/cocktail/beer and read on!

Grading Between Sizes

This skirt is designed to fit smoothly against the body from the wait down to the hips then flare out at this point, with the lower edge of the side front panel should hit just at your widest point. You would grade between sizes on this pattern the same manner as any other pattern. I only really want to highlight an option that I played around with a different way of grading for my own version of this skirt. I kept the front panel the size of my waist measurement and then I graded out more at the side seams to accommodate the additional fabric needed that would have come from the front panel. That way it maintained the shape & size of the front panel but still gave my butt all the room it needs to move!Maison Fleur 6101 Partial Grading alterations
The pink line is what I cut. The blue line in the middle would be a normal grade between sizes.

Adding More Flare

This is the simplest of pattern alterations. The skirt is designed with subtle folds and flare at the sides of the skirt, but if you want a little more oomph, then follow these steps:
You will need the Back and Lower Front skirt pattern pieces and some additional spare paper.  We’re going to use a ‘slash and spread’ method for this alteration. Start by drawing in the stitching line on the top curve of the pattern piece.
It’s best to divide the additional flare evenly on the curve, so draw three vertical lines in the curved area of the pattern piece. Then cut from the hem up to (but not through) the stitching line on the top curved edge, snip from the top curved edge down to the stitching line, leaving a hairs breadth of paper joining all the pieces. By keeping that top seam edge in tact ensures it will still fit to it’s corresponding seam on the side panels when you sew them together.Maison Fleur 6101 Adding more flare alterations
Place the spare paper underneath the pattern piece and secure them together near the centre edge. Now you can decide how much additional flare you want to add – for this example we’ll add 2.5cm/1″ between each section. measure and mark 2.5cm/1″ from the edge, them spread the first cut section open until the lower inside corner meets that mark, secure it in place. Then continue with all the sections, but marking, spreading and securing them down in their new position.Maison Fleur 6101 Adding Flare back alterations
Once they’re in their new position, you’ll need to draw in the new hem curve and top seam curve, smoothing out any corners and bumps. Don’t forget the hem curves up at the side seams so it has a varied curve.

Stretch Fabrics

It’s a little more comfortable to wear as it provides a little more give with body movement, and natural expansion during the day (four O’clock tea and biscuits anyone?). If you want to use a stretch fabric for this skirt then you can make a few extra changes to the construction and pattern.
I recently made a neoprene version of this skirt. The neoprene I used was a hefty 4mm thick so topstitching the seam allowances was a must to keep them open. Because it doesn’t fray I left the hem edge raw. The neoprene has generous stretch so I omitted the centre back closure in favour of an elastic waistline. All you need to do is remove the centre back seam allowance from the pattern piece and cut it as one with the centre back ‘on the fold’ or if you’re cutting the fabric flat, you flip the piece over at the centre back line..
For the waistline to remove any unnecessary bulk and in order to keep it flat as possible, cut a 1″ wide elastic the length of the skirt waistline (add some seam allowance) and sew it into a loop. Then zig-zag stitch it to the stitching line on the right side of the waistline raw edge. Flip it to the inside and then tack it down with a few stitches, by using the stitch in the ditch method at each of the seam joins around the waistline.
Let me know if you have any questions about any other changes, the next post will cover lengthening the skirt.

Pattern Alterations for 1301 Summer Top

I thought I would write a little about potential fitting changes you might need to make to the 1301 summer top.

Shorten or Lengthen the Bodice

If you’re petite or long in torso length then take your bodice pattern and fold it into thirds horizontally (from the shoulder notch). Cut along the crease lines that you just created, then either spread or overlap by as much as you need to, and smooth out the curves and seam lines where you overlapped or spread the pattern pieces.Maison Fleur 1301 Shorten Lengthen alterations
If you’re just short-waisted or long waisted, you can fold the pattern in half from the hem up to the bust dart apex, and slash and spread/overlap where you made the horizontal crease.

Full or Small Bust Adjustment

Maison Fleur patterns are designed for a C-cup, if you’re smaller or bigger then you’re likely to need to make an adjustment on the front bodice to either remove or add room for you bust. There’s a million tutorials out here on the internet so I won’t be reinventing any wheels here:Maison Fleur 1301 FBA SBA alterations
If you’re doing an FBA and it feels like there’s way too much fabric in that dart, you can draw seam allowance around the dart legs and trim away the middle excess fabric.

Sleeve Adjustments to version 3 Puff Kimono Sleeve:

Adding More Puff to the Kimono Sleeve

If you want more puff or room around the shoulder for the sleeve variation you can approach it one of two ways; either with a slash and spread method or by blending from your overall size to a larger one that will accommodate the additional space you want to create. Below is an illustration of slashing and spreading/overlapping for a balanced change in the volume of fabric at the sleeve.
Maison Fleur 1301 V3 sleeve alterationsThis will increase/decrease the amount of fabric that is gathered and sewn to the sleeve facing. For wearing comfort I would suggest that you have the majority of the fabric gathering on the outer areas of the arm, and avoid adding too much bulk to the underarm area.

Wide Bicep Adjustment

The kimono sleeve sits at the bicep on the arm. I would recommend measuring your bicep and comparing it to the measurement of the sleeve facing. Ideally you’ll want some ease for movement and comfort. If your bicep measurement is smaller or larger than the pattern size you would start by completing the above step to adding more room to the sleeve by slashing and spread/overlap the pattern piece by however much you need to, then you’ll want to adjust the sleeve facing so it will fit better around the bicep.
Cut along the long ends of the sleeve facing, parallel to the short edge. Then spread or overlap by the amount you need and secure into place.Maison Fleur 1301 V3 Sleeve facing alterations
I think that covers some of the most common changes for bodices I can think of for now, let me know in the comments if there’s anything else you’d like me to cover.